Sunday, September 18, 2005

Staying at the Kingdom City Compound


This is certainly the most unusual experience I’ve had in my travels to the Middle East so far. Because of US State Department warnings, our firm - PDI - and our client - SABIC - arranged for us to stay at Kingdom City Compound, in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, instead of the posh Four Seasons Hotel.

What’s more, we have security detail:  from a Danish firm. Karim was my security escort from King Khaled Airport. He seemed to be a friendly guy, though his friendliness didn’t belie his attention and care for my security. He was a bit chatty, too.

Entrance to Kingdom City Compound (image credit)

In Conversation with Karim
  • They were aware, of course, of the recent three-day shootout in Dammam.
  • His firm secures Riyadh for clients over a 200-square kilometer area.
  • They’ve found a cache of weapons in the Western Region. 
  • Iraqi insurgents are coming to the Kingdom, and apparently taking stock and re-mobilizing themselves. 
  • British Aerospace has accommodations here. 
  • Executives and their families live here. From what I could see in the night, when Karim gave me a brief tour, it’s a mighty nice compound. 
  • There are about 360 units.
  • There’s a Swedish school. 
  • Kingdom Hospital is next to the Compound, and has state-of-the-art facilities. 
  • Karim lives nearby. In fact, he humored, it’s so close that people can see through his bedroom window and see him in his t-shirt when the curtains are open.
The Compound is owned by Prince Alwaleed, who is one of the richest men in the world. He has a sense of humor and a sense of place, so he’s named different “islands” here after famous brands, such as Four Seasons, Saks Fifth Avenue and Movenpick.

Prince Alwaleed bin Talal al Saud (image credit)

Calm and Desolation

Kingdom City Compound is much smaller than Dhahran, which is the suburb that surrounds Saudi Aramco’s HQ. But in terms of landscaping and care, it’s definitely nicer. I frankly don’t like the idea of being enclosed, gated or walled off.  But we’re safe and comfortable here.

Today I stayed at the Compound, after the rest of the PDI team left late last night - Peter, Don, Laure and Rolf  - because I’m headed to Muscat. In fact, Gulf Air stupidly gave away my reservation for a flight out today, so I’m actually here until tomorrow.

I thought I’d do some work, but I really needed a day off. So, besides dealing with my Gulf Air tickets, I more or less relaxed. Between 12 M last night and 10 AM today, I slept about 8 hours. As in Steineke Hall in Dhahran, I’ve actually slept quite well here. Thankfully. In fact, I felt tired this afternoon, so I napped for about an hour. Maybe, without the stimulation and posh of a hotel, my mind and body more easily calm down.

This Compound has felt desolate to me. There have been relatively few people around. I hung out by the swimming pool a couple of times today, and saw a bit more people there. It is the weekend after all.

Still, as I did my exercise walk throughout the compound this morning, I hardly saw any residents. Mostly workers taking care of various units. I wound my way through the different neighborhoods:
  • Citigroup
  • Rotana
  • Kingdom
  • Four Seasons
  • Canary Wharf
  • George V
  • Fairmont
  • Kingdom Centre
  • Planet Hollywood
  • Movenpick
  • Saks Fifth Ave. 
It was hot, though not humid, and I was getting thirsty. The left side of my left leg, as usual, began to cramp and tighten after about 10 minutes. Thankfully, it went away as I slowed my pace a bit, then stayed away as I gradually picked it up again.

Being safe and comfortable notwithstanding, I don’t quite like my room:
  • Poor mobile signal reception 
  • No shampoo
  • Refridgerator not working very well
  • No stocking up of bottled water
I didn’t like my room at the Regency Inter-continental in Bahrain, either. I am, though, headed to the Grand Hyatt in Muscat tomorrow, and that’s a five-star luxury hotel.

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