Karim has been so kind and accommodating. Besides taking me to the Gulf Air office 25-30 km from the compound, he took me to a mobile shop to get my Saudi 'sim' card – finally! – get some cash, and get ointment for my infected eye.
At one point, we were inside a mobile shop, “30 seconds from purchasing that sim card,” when the religious police – matawa – came and took the shop owners’ ID. Quickly people vacated this and other shops. Quickly the shops brought down the protective blinds and closed down. Karim quietly and slowly directed me out of the shop, turned to the right, then back to the car.
It was late evening prayer time.
I thought that was it, that we’d have to try to get the 'sim' card next time. But he said we’d drive around a little bit. He said that as long as you’re moving, that’s considered traveling. And apparently traveling is exempt from the things that the matawa would typically nab you for.
The matawa are apparently large in numbers. Karim did corroborate, at least in small part, how harsh they can treat you – beating, lashing – if you’ve done something wrong and they catch you. He said, you might accidentally bump a Saudi lady on the sidewalk, and if she makes a ruckus about the contact, you can be in big trouble.
The matawa have “snitches” at the malls. One of those snitches will call them, if he sees you doing something wrong – for example, spending time with a lady, if you’re not part of her immediate family.
I’m generally a social guy, and I hang out with women. But through all my socializing in the last three to four years, I’ve avoided befriending a Saudi lady – and in large measure Arab women, too. What I saw and what Karim shared last night reinforced the care I exercised in this region.
What else have I learned from Karim?
His grandfather worked for King Abdulaziz. His father helped to design the city of Riyadh, apparently in all aspects of the world – infrastructure, schools, housing and buildings.
His clan – Sha’ath – originated in the northern portions of the Western Province, and settled in the Gaza Strip and became Palestinians. But now they’re throughout the Kingdom, the Middle East and the world.
There are several other security firms in the Kingdom, and they share information and even coordinate with one another. Most of have paramilitary, security backgrounds, but it’s rare – and sought after – to have a corporate background.
David wondered what other companies were doing regarding traveling their people to the region. Karim said there were many who told their people not to, for example, in part because their insurance wouldn’t cover them. But some apparently forced them to – but, at least, arranged for their security.
The Kingdom City Compound is where they recommended that we stay. There are several other compounds, but they’ve already invested in improving systems, processes and services here. It’s also clear that they’ve built good relationships with various staff members on camp. Still, Karim told me today, there’s got to be a balance. He has more ideas to secure the Compound further, but then it becomes uncomfortable for the residents.
There’s an armored tank right outside the perimeter of the Compound. He said the reason it’s not inside is that at one point, a guard nodded off and accidentally pulled the trigger. It shot through the wall. Thankfully no one was hurt. I told him, I expected a horrible story of some child getting hurt inside.
There’s also a slew of aviation companies. There was a handful of them at the outskirts of King Khaled Airport that he pointed me to, as we rode in early this afternoon. They’re private jets for business people.
King Abdullah has a fleet of vintage cars. His palace is in Riyadh, with circles upon circles of security.
On a lighter note with Karim
I thought that was it, that we’d have to try to get the 'sim' card next time. But he said we’d drive around a little bit. He said that as long as you’re moving, that’s considered traveling. And apparently traveling is exempt from the things that the matawa would typically nab you for.
The matawa are apparently large in numbers. Karim did corroborate, at least in small part, how harsh they can treat you – beating, lashing – if you’ve done something wrong and they catch you. He said, you might accidentally bump a Saudi lady on the sidewalk, and if she makes a ruckus about the contact, you can be in big trouble.
The matawa have “snitches” at the malls. One of those snitches will call them, if he sees you doing something wrong – for example, spending time with a lady, if you’re not part of her immediate family.
I’m generally a social guy, and I hang out with women. But through all my socializing in the last three to four years, I’ve avoided befriending a Saudi lady – and in large measure Arab women, too. What I saw and what Karim shared last night reinforced the care I exercised in this region.
 |
| Karim, to my right, Rolf and Herdie, King Abdulaziz Historic Centre, Riyadh (2005) |
What else have I learned from Karim?
His grandfather worked for King Abdulaziz. His father helped to design the city of Riyadh, apparently in all aspects of the world – infrastructure, schools, housing and buildings.
His clan – Sha’ath – originated in the northern portions of the Western Province, and settled in the Gaza Strip and became Palestinians. But now they’re throughout the Kingdom, the Middle East and the world.
There are several other security firms in the Kingdom, and they share information and even coordinate with one another. Most of have paramilitary, security backgrounds, but it’s rare – and sought after – to have a corporate background.
David wondered what other companies were doing regarding traveling their people to the region. Karim said there were many who told their people not to, for example, in part because their insurance wouldn’t cover them. But some apparently forced them to – but, at least, arranged for their security.
The Kingdom City Compound is where they recommended that we stay. There are several other compounds, but they’ve already invested in improving systems, processes and services here. It’s also clear that they’ve built good relationships with various staff members on camp. Still, Karim told me today, there’s got to be a balance. He has more ideas to secure the Compound further, but then it becomes uncomfortable for the residents.
There’s an armored tank right outside the perimeter of the Compound. He said the reason it’s not inside is that at one point, a guard nodded off and accidentally pulled the trigger. It shot through the wall. Thankfully no one was hurt. I told him, I expected a horrible story of some child getting hurt inside.
There’s also a slew of aviation companies. There was a handful of them at the outskirts of King Khaled Airport that he pointed me to, as we rode in early this afternoon. They’re private jets for business people.
King Abdullah has a fleet of vintage cars. His palace is in Riyadh, with circles upon circles of security.
 |
| Karim, second from the left, and our project team at the National Museum of Riyadh (2005) |
On a lighter note with Karim
Karim is a shy, very polite, watchful guy. He’s also very knowledgeable, and shares what he knows freely. At first I thought he would be all business, but in the few days he took care of us, it was clear he had a sense of humor. For example, last night, after taking me to Gulf Air, ATM, pharmacy, and two mobile places, he said the only thing you I have left to do is apply for nationality.
I joked with him, too, at the appropriate times.
We were rushing to get to the Gulf Air office last night to get my paper tickets. He was a bit displeased that we got our signals crossed about our meeting place. I was at the front gate, sitting on the bench under a canopy. He entered the gate, and looked for me by the guest houses. We were within a couple of feet of each other, but for about 15 minutes we didn’t see each other.
It was about 6:20 PM at that point, the Gulf Air office was to close at 7 PM, and it was 25 - 30 km away. So, he said, he’s going to have to do some “evasive driving. I’m authorized to do that. Is that OK?”
“Yes, of course,” I said. “I’ve done evasive driving myself, and I’ve never been authorized to do so.”
He chuckled.
