National Museum, King Abdulaziz Historical Center

Just as I was enthralled and keen to take my time to read, reflect and write about the various exhibits of the National Museum in Bahrain, I wanted so much to spend more time at this museum. In fact, Fernando, Laure and I were stragglers, and Karim had to pull us along a bit. We went there yesterday afternoon, November 24th.

It was way too much to absorb in a short period of time, and I was keen to get a book. Alas, the gift shop was closed for evening prayers, and we had to move on. But I picked up a pamphlet from the museum. Even though it’s in Arabic, the one thing that’s in English is its website: www.saudimuseum.com (which is no longer available, unfortunately).

Here’s what I downloaded:

This Hall represents the ancient Arabian kingdoms that were dominant in the Arabian Peninsula thousands of years prior to the fourth century B.C. Three successive civilizations are represented:

• Early Arab Kingdoms: Dilmon, Madian, Gariah and Tima'a. 

• Intermediary Arab Kingdoms: the famous cities of Al-Hamra, Dawmat Al-Jandal, Tima'a and Tarout. 

• Late Arab Kingdoms: the civilizations that thrived in Al-Aflaaj, Najraan and Ain Zubaida. 

A special location is reserved in the front gallery for a discussion of the early history of the Arabian Peninsula, and contains stone texts from various civilizations dating back to four thousand B.C. 

The hall displays archaeological objects depicting the development of calligraphy: from symbolic writing in Iraq and hieroglyphic writing in Egypt, to the development of the initial alphabets in the period between 2500 - 1500 B.C. 

Presented also is a section of the wall of Tima'a, rebuilt with original brick, as well as a model of the cemetery at Dilmon. The display cases contain subject-related artifacts. 

The first section of the hall addresses the early Arab kingdoms. For instance, the Madian civilization is presented by ceramic artifacts, historic paintings, and other significant objects from the Gariah and Tima'a civilizations, as well as some information about ancient trade routes. 

The second section addresses the intermediate Arab kingdoms, which were dominant in the period between 800-500 B.C, and known by the cities of Tima'a, Al-Fao and Dawmat Al-Jandal. The hall displays replicas of period buildings, as well as architectural objects and artifacts from cemeteries.

The late Arabian kingdoms of the fourth and fifth centuries are presented by a discussion of the cities of Tima'a, Ain Zubaidah, Al Aflaaj, Qasr Ma'abad and finally Najran that was famous for its innovative agricultural practices. In addition, this hall provides information about the basics of archeology science, and the way antiquities are handled. At the end of the stairs is an adjoining hall reserved for research. 

PRESENTATION MEDIA:  A film, as well as slides, transparencies, and sound effects discuss the wall of Tima'a, and computerized three-dimensional replicas depict historical sites such as Mada'en Saleh, Tima'a, and Al- Fao Village.

The pre-Islamic era lasted from 400 B.C until the revelation of the Prophet Mohammad. The exhibit of this period displays the lifestyle of the Arab tribes of the time, including their heritage, beliefs, customs and traditions, markets and the development of Arabic calligraphy. The hall contains pictures, paintings and sculptures that represent the era. 

One of the most important attractions in the museum is "Atams", the depiction of fortresses built by the inhabitants of cities. There is an accompanying collection of weapons and domestic artifacts that dates back to the period between the fourth and the sixth century.

The exhibit includes replicas of the pre historic cities of Makkah, Jarash, Yathrib, Khaibar, Najraan, Khadrama, and Dawmat Aljandal.

The hall exhibits the era's social life and a model of a typical system of irrigation of the time. Simulations of famous markets like Okaz, the alMajaz, Najraan and Habasha are included, as well as petroglyphs and a depiction of Al-Feil, the elephant event which took place in 571A.C, the year of Prophet Mohammad's birth.

An escalator at the end of the hall leads up to the fourth hall.

PRESENTATION MEDIA:  A virtual presentation depicting irrigation systems, as well as additional information about the exhibited objects, is available from a computer display.

Note:  I wondered what religion the Arabian people followed, before the advent of Islam: Apparently it varied and it was, in many circumstances, a matter of tribal custom. Still, Zoroastrianism, Christianity and Judaism were prominent.

This hall displays the Arabian Peninsula in the period from the Prophet Mohammed's arrival in Madinah until the establishment of the first Saudi State. This exhibition includes the early era of Islam, as well as the rule of the Caliphs and the Umayyad and Abbasid States. In addition to covering the history of some small independent states including the Mamluk and Ottoman era. The exhibit includes artifacts from the historic al Rabatha city, samples of Islamic weapons, and scientific texts from different Islamic periods.  

The hall exhibits the Prophet's biography from his arrival in Madinah until the conquest and recapturing of Makkah. It also displays the struggle of the Muslim Caliphs and their efforts to expand and build an Islamic State, and the collection, recording, and preservation of the Holy Quran. Also discussed is the lifestyle of the Umayyad State, including related architectural replicas and pots and coins of the period.

A special area in the hall is reserved for a demonstration of the Islamic sciences, and the prosperous era that characterized the rule of the Umayyad and Abbasid Caliphs. The section concerned with the Abbasid period includes an illustration of its eponymous architectural style with replicas of palaces in al Rabatha and the ports of Ather and Mabiat.

A history of Arabic calligraphy is also exhibited with samples for different types of Arabic script dating from the second century of Hijrah (emigration of the Prophet to Madinah) On grave stelae and stone inscriptions.

The last section of the hall contains replicas of Mamluk and Ottoman buildings such as the Al-Aznam and Mouleh castles, in addition to some old doors, weapons, steel products, pottery and some Arabic manuscripts.  

PRESENTATION MEDIA:  A computer presentation recreates a virtual visit to the ancient city of al Rabatha. In addition, a film explains how science and civilization developed in the region, and discusses the role of Muslim scholars and scientists. Three-dimensional replicas with audio-visual effects illustrate the Muslim conquests of Badr, Uhud, and Al Khandaq.

This hall contains a complete demonstration for the first Saudi reign, and the state of the Arabian Peninsula at the beginning of the second Hijri century, the period of Imam Mohammed Bin Saud's rule and the House of Saud.

Exhibits illustrate the social life and traditions at that time, followed by presentations of Sheikh Mohammad Bin Abdul-Wahab's invocation and his agreement with Prince Mohammed Bin Saud, the ruler of AlDarryah. This wing describes AlDarryah's history: its origins and locations. A large three-dimensional replica of the city recreates its streets, mosques, markets, and farms.

In addition, the hall illustrates the second era of the Saudi reign and its founder, Imam Turki Bin Abdullah with a collection of documents and a replica of his new capital Riyadh that shows the original walls, streets, buildings, and old weaponry of the time. The hall concludes with documents and photographs recording King Abdul-Aziz's life during his exile, and the suffering he endured until he recaptured Riyadh.

This hall presents King Abdul-Aziz re-capturing the city of Riyadh on the 14 of January 1902. In addition, there is a film and several exhibits that illustrate his unification of the Kingdom; from the time he reentered Riyadh, to his unification of the regions of Najd, alHassa, Aseer, Haiel, alHijaz, and Jazaan. This hall presents King Abdul-Aziz's activities in settling the Bedouin tribes, the daily life in old Riyadh, and historical documents concerning the social life and culture of the cities and villages, as well as some agricultural areas.

Visitors are welcome to explore the rich sources of information concerning the social and cultural traditions of the Kingdom's many regions, including the Najd, alHijaz, Haiel, Aseer, Tihama and the Eastern Province. A documentary film demonstrates the discovery of oil in the Kingdom, the subsequent process of development, and its role in the lives of the people of the Arabian Peninsula. In addition is a display of some of the early tools used to extract oil.

PRESENTATION MEDIA:  A documentary about the unification of the Kingdom is accompanied with sound and laser effects and presented in a round auditorium. Three additional movies depict the exploration for oil in the Kingdom, and the history of the development of the oil industry.

This hall represents the history of the Two Holy Mosques and the pilgrimage through the centuries. 

A large replica of the Holy City of Makkah is marked with the old Hajj routes. The first of these routes is that of Syria or the Levant, and next those of Iraq (called Zubaida's Path), Egypt, and Yemen. 

A section about the Holy Mosque features a large replica of the structure as it now stands after the second Saudi expansion completed by the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques, King Fahad Bin Abdul-Aziz.

There are various exhibits that include ancient and recent tools, the fabric covering of the Holy Ka'abah, and some brass and antique artifacts belonging to the Holy Mosque. In addition there is a curtain and a door of the Holy Ka'abah. This wing describes the history of Makkah Al Mukkaramah and the Ka'abah.

Another section is designated to exhibit the history of Prophet Mohammad's Mosque in Madinah and a replica of the Mosque after the second Saudi expansion.

The showcases in this wing contain architectural objects and artifacts of the Holy Mosque, as well as Islamic texts, pots, and lamps that were used by the builders of the Mosque.

The construction history of the Holy Mosque from the time of the Prophet Mohammad to the present is presented in this section. A map illustrates the history of the pilgrimage through the different Islamic eras. 

PRESENTATION MEDIA:  A film narrates the history of Makkah from the building of the Holy Ka'abah until the last phase of expansions in the Holy Mosque. Another film describes the history of Al Madinah Al Munawarrah and all the expansions in the Holy Mosque. A third film illustrates the process of making the cover for the Holy Ka'abah, and the old Hajj routs.

It’s interesting indeed that the Advisory Committee for the museum is entirely comprised of women. I don’t want to make any assumptions, though I do wonder if this is an honored or a menial opportunity for these princesses.

Baalbeck Restaurant in Riyadh

Karim took the whole team for a dinner outing on Wednesday evening, November 23rd. It’s the restaurant that catered his wedding.

I suggested this to Peter and the rest of the gang, so that we could have a break from this enclosed compound. We finished our first center that afternoon, and a weekend to look forward to.

It’s a Lebanese dinner, and as is the norm of private meal gatherings I’ve been part of in Saudi Arabia, there is a wonderful excess of food.

There was so much of what Karim was sharing that I wanted to “download” but was too tired to retain. Now, after a full day of visits, touring, and learning yesterday, conversations and observations from that evening are even more difficult to recount.

(image credit)

Still, let’s see what I can recollect:

We sat in a family section, because we had Laure with us. The restaurant didn’t seem very big, at least not the room we ate in. They had dividers on wheels, so they could easily be moved around to provide the necessary cultural and religious privacy for women.

There is a bean dip that I liked, which reminded me of refried beans but more “soupy.”

Karim married his cousin. He hadn’t seen her since she was 2-years old, but when he did, “everything was in slow-motion.”

With family permission, the prospective groom may visit with a prospective bride.

Apparently if she chooses to serve her guests, it’s a first show of interest in the young man.

In turn, it permits the young man (and his family, I suppose) to size up the young woman – her gait, her face and  her teeth.

Tour of Dir’iyyah with Karim

Karim continues as our security detail here in Riyadh – a really good guy, a very knowledgeable guy.  He took us (Rolf, Herdie, Laure and I) to a tour of this old city yesterday, Thursday, November 24^th:

• Dir’iyyah is the “historical seat” of the Saud family 
• Saud bin Mohammed, until 1725
• Wadi Hanifa
• Wahabbism (1745):  “all men created equal, one God”

Texture, texture, texture is what stands out for me the most in our little tour of this old city. 

Texture comes from the mud and stones used to make the houses.  In the last decade, it has hardly rained, so this sort of material is fine.  I don’t know what else they’ve included in the material to hold it together, but a burst of rain could erode it quickly.

Texture is sometimes more visual for me, though it’s still tactile.

It also comes from the gravel.  The thatch used as roofing.  The logs to reinforce it.  The steel that emerged following wood.

Better known as trash

At first I thought this city was ancient, but the dilapidation we saw left remnants of modern society:

• Pepsi cans
• Marlboro packs
• Al-Rabie juice boxes
• Broken ceramic
• A girl’s slipper

The city was obviously no longer inhabited, but in its time it housed a handful of the princes:

• Mohammed bin Saud
• Fahad bin Saud
• Thinayah bin Saud
• Nassir bin Saud
• Saad bin Saud

Karim said that when the Ottomans pulled out of Arabia, they “took” the Thinayahs.  When King Abdulaziz went to Turkey, he asked to see the Thinayahs.  Apparently he saw a woman who was captivating.  His son (Faisal?) was quite captivated by her, too.  Knowing that he had just a moment to act, before his father did, he asked for her hand in marriage. 

Karim described this woman, Effa (sp?), as in ‘pristine’ (my word). 

Herdie, Laure, Rolf and I, on our tour of Dir'iyyah (2005)

What else about Dir’iyyah?

The “desert cooler” is an AC device:  Water is fed across a mesh or screen, then electricity powers a fan that blows cool air into a room.

We saw a small school house.  A group of Arabic student visiting wrote their names on the wall.

This is the thing, for me, now:  There was some graffiti on the walls or doors.  Before, I would’ve taken umbrage for this.  But now I take this as part of the history that this old city holds, and that history includes not only its actual inhabitants but also its subsequent visitors. 

Some Western names were also etched recently on a wall:  Deb, Greg 2004. 

By a little shelter that we called a “bus stop”:  a “bunch of bachelors” called themselves “A.N.A.”  Then they wrote down the names of their future children:  for example, “Abu” (meaning father of).  It just occurs to me that by writing it as “Abu,” they (this bunch) were revealing their names. 

Speaking of names, for the millions and millions of Arab men, it seems to me that they use amongst them a very limited number of names.  So, writing their names on that fateful moment on the bus stop doesn’t really reveal who they are.

The doors are simple, like everything else about the construction of these houses:  made of wood with some simple patterns painted on.  Each panel didn’t align perfectly against each other, but still they must have used a tool like a planer to create a flat surface on both sides of the door.

The route Karim walked us through seemed, in part, a walk through the historical development of these houses: 

• From wooden doors, to steel doors
• From largely earth tones, to the advent of pastel green, red and blue
• From mud and stone, to something that looks more like concrete

Still, I’m amazed that all of this seems backward for a city that was inhabited fairly recently (i.e., 20-30 years ago).  And the “palaces” of the princes were downright plebeian.  Maybe they weren’t prominent princes.  In one house, Karim pointed to a bathtub that was perhaps 2/3^rds the size of a typical bathtub in the US.

The current Royal Princes have truly palatial residence that we saw in the dark en route to the Nancy Charles-Parker’s house in the Diplomatic Quarters.   

There are wooden downspouts emerging from the roofing.  Given that there has hardly been rain in the last decade, I wondered if they served any other function.  Apparently not. 

There were triangle holes across the top portions of the taller structures:  They were decorative as well as military in purpose.  We walked along an elevated platform, and the wall had these triangle openings.

At one point, we looked down into a Shangri-La (my word):  a seeming oasis of green expanse, small plants, several trees, a rudimentary irrigation system.  There has so much rain in the past that it can flood these lowering lying areas and create water levels of several feet high.